I first want to start off by saying that the only way to truly have a long lasting finished surface for your resin piece is to use nothing but hand polishing your piece or re-glossing it with resin. While using items like Triple Thick or Glossy Accents will last for quite some time, because they are a softer material they wear off or get dinged. Using the earlier methods, like those tables at Sonny’s BBQ, your resin pieces will look nearly the same. Just look at the pieces from the 60’s and 70’s. However, some of the pieces you will be making aren’t high end pieces and some aren’t made for wear and tear situations. No one expects a $10 glittery sticker style piece to last for 5+ years and pieces made for stuff like scrapbooking just won’t get that much wear and tear.
This is not the “best” fix but a quick fix for those wanting to finish out those sanded edges on an otherwise perfect resin piece. Adding a little Diamond Glaze or Glossy Accents to your finger and just rubbing it over the sanded edge will gloss up the piece and hide those edges. The glosses dry very quickly especially in thin coatings so be sure that you keep your finger just slightly damp and clean any strayed glaze immediately.
This technique is also helpful for rescuing a piece that has stray Dremel marks. Its not always easy to control the Dremel tool and it slips off the end and gashes your piece. The same technique as above is used for this. It is better to spot fix a shiny resin piece than to entirely coat your piece in a gloss. If your un-coated resin is already nice a glossy, it should stay that way for a long time. Anyway, like always, a video is worth 1,000 words.
There are so many beautiful, highly detailed brass, bronze, and silver charms being sold nowadays. Most are quite large and don’t need anything additional to stand on their own other than a matching chain. Sometimes more is not better. You can though enhance the look without taking anything away from the piece. The majority of charms being sold are not solid bronze or brass and true glass enameling is not possible because they cannot withstand the high temperatures required to melt the powdered glass. Cold enameling is your next best choice and is quite durable, cheaper than glass enameling, and your choice of colors is limitless.
I recently did a video showing this process, while not using these two exact same charms, the procedure is the same. You will need:
Resin – Long working time is a must. Envirotex, Famowood, Easy Cast, etc.
Powdered Pigments – Pearl-X mica powders or even powdered eye shadow. I would recommend against liquid colorants as it is best not to change the chemical properties of the resin for this process.
Mixing sticks and some sort of applicator – I use a plastic palette spatula and a paintbrush.
Palette for mixing – plastic is better.
Even though resin is liquid, it is not water. It is a much thicker substance and the surface tension is your friend especially for a project such as this. There is an art to applying resin to a surface with no boundaries. You want to apply enough to cover the surface and dome it a little bit but too much and you will break the surface tension that is created keeping your resin in place. It takes practice.
Below is a video I did cold enameling some pendant pieces and hope that it will give you some ideas you can take and run with.